| This Newsletter Contains:
VARIATION IN SHEA BUTTER: HARDNESS
WORKING WITH SHEA BUTTER, IV: SOAPS
FAIR TRADE
Variation in Shea Butter: Hardness
Shea butter is primarily composed of two fatty acids, stearic and
oleic, which together account for 85-90% of the total fatty acids
(Maranz et al 2004). The relative proportions of these two fatty
acids determine the solidity or hardness of the shea butter. Stearic
acid is solid, while oleic acid is a liquid at room temperature.
Therefore, shea butter with a higher oleic content will be softer
than shea butter with a low oleic content.
The proportions of stearic and oleic acids in the
shea kernels and butter differ across the distribution range of
the species. Shea butter from Central Africa has consistently high
oleic acid content, and is liquid at warm ambient temperatures.
The fatty acid proportion of West African shea butter is much more
variable than Central African shea butter. In West African shea
butter, the oleic content ranges from 37 to 55%, while the stearic
content can vary from 25 to 50% (Maranz et al 2004). This means
that the hardness of shea butter from West Africa, which is where
the vast majority of shea butter and nuts are produced, can vary
significantly.
Even shea butter from one region, such as the central
region of Togo can vary in hardness. This is because an individual
tree that produces hard butter can be located right next to one
that produces soft butter. Since shea nuts are gathered from a wide
area for local production, the shea butter consistency is determined
by the average fatty acid contents of the region.
We have also found that the age of the shea nuts
can also impact the solidity and consistency of the shea butter.
In our own production, shea butter that is produced from nuts that
are three months old or less will be much harder than shea butter
produced from older nuts. In fact, we have found that shea butter
from nuts that have been stored at least on season is much softer
and creamier than shea butter from non-aged nuts.
The healing and moisturizing ability of shea butter
is not affected by the hardness, since this is determined by the
ratios of the two main fatty acids, and the unsaponifiable content
is similar across fresh unrefined, handcrafted shea butters.
Once the shells are removed, the shea kernels are
dried for storage and shea butter making throughout the year. If
the kernels are properly dried, they have a shelf life of 5 years
or more. In fact, the shea nuts from the previous season produce
more oil and a creamier textured butter since they have a lower
moisture content.
Source:
Maranz, S, Z. Wiesman, J. Bisgaard and G. Bianchi. 2004. Germplasm resources of Vitellaria paradoxa based on variations in fat composition across the species distribution range. Agroforestry Systems 60:71-76.
Working with Shea Butter, part IV: Soaps
Shea butter makes a very hard bar of soap. It should
be at least 10% of the oils used if you want the moisturizing qualities
to come through. In cold process soaps, it is important to mix the
oils thoroughly and let the soap come to at least medium trace,
otherwise some shea crystals may not saponify completely and the
soap will have small white flecks in it. This is cosmetic only,
and can be prevented by stirring evenly and well. There are a variety
of shea butter soap recipes on our website http://www.agbangakarite.com/Other-Shea-Butter/recipes.htm.
FAIR TRADE IN THE UNITED STATES
Fair trade is essential for African people and governments
to regain their independence and strength. While individuals can
help by purchasing fairly traded products, much more is needed for
the full benefits of fair trade to be realized. Read more about
the larger issue of fair trade in Africa at http://www.data.org/whyafrica/issuetrade.php.
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Copyright 2005 Agbanga Karite Group
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Copyright 2004-2005 Agbanga Karite Group
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